How Can a Bad Iac Valve Affect Your Car While Driving? also How Would a Bad Ignition Coil Act While

AKA Trembler CoilThe trembler coil was a device called a Ruhmkorff or induction coil, widely used in the 19th century.3 It combines two magnetic devices on the same iron-cored solenoid. The first is a transformer, used to transform low voltage electricity to a high voltage, suitable for an engine's spark plug. Two coils of wire are wound around an iron core. The primary winding carries the low voltage battery current, and the secondary winding generates the high voltage for the spark plug. Attached to the end of the coil is an interrupter or trembler, a magnetically operated switch or relay, which repeatedly breaks the primary current to create flux (changes) in the transformer needed to produce high voltage.The switch contacts are on a springy iron arm, which holds them closed. The arm is mounted near the iron core. When battery power is applied, the coil acts as an electromagnet; the magnetic field from the core pulls the iron arm, opening the switch contacts, interrupting the primary current. The magnetic field of the core is switched off, allowing the arm to spring back, closing the contacts again. Then the primary current is turned on again, and the magnetic field opens the contacts again. This cycle repeats many times per second, while power is applied to the coil. A similar mechanism is used in the electric bell.As the circuit opens each time, the energy stored in the solenoid's magnetic field is released and by electromagnetic induction produces a pulse of high voltage in the secondary coil winding. This voltage is sufficient to fire a spark plug located in the engine's cylinder, igniting the petrol mixture.1The difference between a trembler coil and a modern ignition coil is that in a modern coil the primary current is broken only once by the contact breaker for each cycle of the piston, creating a single spark. In the trembler coil, in contrast, each "break" of the trembler contact produces a pulse of high voltage from the coil. During the time the points in the timer are closed, the vibrating trembler arm produces a series of high voltage pulses, producing multiple sparks.This is where MSD got the idea for Multiple Spark Discharge, only they use electronics and modern capacitors to get the job done.Source.• Related QuestionsHow does the collapse of a magnetic field cause a voltage spike?If anyone can answer this they will get a Nobel Prize. All we can do is describe what happens, but no-one has any idea of how. Electricity and magnetism and even gravity have observable effects and mathematically rigorous formulas to describe what happens, but as to the why and how, that is a mystery. What we do know is that moving a wire through a magnetic field induces a movement of electrons. If there are no electrons, there is no voltage, so just a collapse of a magnetic field does nothing at all. However if you set up an electro-magnetic field say in a coil of wire, then place another coil around this, when the current is switched off, the magnetic field collapses thus creating a simulation of a wire moving through a magnetic field. The energy is transferred from one coil to the other. In car ignition coils, the 12 volt coil is thick wire with high current that is surrounded by a coils of very thin wire. When the low voltage, high current electromagnetic field collapses, it induces a very high voltage with low current flow in the secondary coil. The energy is conserved and transferred creating the spark at the air gap of the spark plug. When you create these conditions, this is what happens. How it happens is a mystery, and Einstein was always thinking about this, but could not come up with any theory that could link together all these very strange forces. Others have postulated inter-dimensional forces are responsible, but still with no idea of how or why. When the sun emits a massive cloud of swirling plasma, there are huge magnetic fields associated with the swirling matter. If such a cloud passes close to the planet Earth, there are fields collapsing and forming constantly. These fields will induce massive voltage spikes in any conductor, but especially in any coils of wire. Thus transformers will blow up, and any electric circuits will be fried. The closest we get to this in nature is from lightning strikes, which are massive voltage spikes themselves, and these can induce spikes through proximity, but we are describing the conditions that are needed rather than how. Keep asking and some genius might some day understand how.How does the collapse of a magnetic field cause a voltage spike?------What are symptoms of ignition coil failure?Here are the 6 symptoms of Ignition Coil Failure:BackfiringnIf your vehicle is backfiring, this can indicate early symptoms of an ignition coil failure. This occurs when unused fuel is emitted through the exhaust system. If you do not address the issue, you can also do serious damage to your exhaust, resulting in unnecessary and costly repairs. Your exhaust may emit a black smoke and you may even detect the smell of gasoline.Starting ProblemsnCheck your high tension leads (HT Leads). They run between the distributor and spark plugs. Ignition coil failures result in 1 or more spark plugs not receiving the appropriate amount of charge. If you have trouble starting your vehicle in the cold, this is a good sign of potential ignition coil failure. You can run a simple test on the HT leads to check that there is in fact a spark going from each lead to each spark plug. Fuel EconomynIf your vehicle is getting a lot less mileage for the gallon, it could also be a sign of an ignition coil failure. When less power is reaching the spark plugs, your vehicle will struggle and use more fuel to compensate for the lack of power transfer.Engine MisfiringnTrying to start your vehicle when the ignition coils fail will result in a rough ride. Your vehicle will cough and splutter regularly. When you drive at high speeds, your vehicle will jerk and spit. It will also vibrate when you are running idle at a stop sign or intersection. Vehicle StallingnWith ignition coil failure, your vehicle will have irregular sparks emitting to the plugs to keep it running. This will result in stalling. When you bring your vehicle to a stop, it may just shut off totally, thus leaving you needing to restart it.Coil FailurenIf your spark plugs are worn out, it forces the ignition coils to operate at a much higher output. Keeping your sparks plug in optimum condition can reduce your chances of experiencing an ignition coil failure. Some simple regular maintenance will save you a lot of money in the long run.nIf the gap in your spark plug widens due to normal erosion, it leads to an increased voltage being required to create a spark in the chamber. The increased voltage demands more current flow through the primary circuit and this increased current flow can overload the primary transistor. Keeping all these components in good running condition is also a big help towards keeping your coils in a good working condition.What are symptoms of ignition coil failure?.------Is it possible to visually inspect a spark plug and determine if it's functional? What do I look for?There are several steps in the visual inspection process that will help you determine the condition of a spark plug. However, there is a significant amount of science and engineering knowledge required to take advantage of visual cues. In the old days, one could look at a photo chart to compare what you're spark plug condition is and could cover almost all variables. Those days are long gone. It is important to note the condition of the spark plug will indicate the operating condition of the engine , not the spark plug itself.Spark plugs are a consumable wear and tear component.Almost all worn out spark plugs will still function when they are due for replacement. This should not suggest you keep using them past the OEM recommended maintenance schedule.Advanced materials used in today's plugs specifically for modern engines, do last longer than the previous generation types. This should not suggest using the very latest type of spark plugs will improve the performance of an engine built in 1968. In fact, that engine will probably perform poorly.An example is the use of platinum tipped spark plugs. They work very well in high compression engines with variable valve camshaft designs with high voltage ignition coils. Installed in a 8:1 compression smog with a oil filled coil will fall flat on its face and probably be excessively fouled with carbon deposits.When the correct spark plug is used, upon visual inspection, the most common observations will detect;Detonation (pre-ignition knock and R/M quality)Excessive fuel (rich)Lean (not enough fuel)Oil contamination (piston ring or valve guide wear)Fuel quality (octane performance)Piston condition (metal contamination)Ignition timing (retarted / advance)Ignition performance (coil voltage)One or more of these clues maybe evident at the same time.Photo u00a9 2019 NGK Spark PlugsThe image above covers some of the basics, but is by no means, covers every type of spark plugs or engine configuration. When I build 650 HP racing engines, I test different types of spark plugs that may have a different heat range (hotter or colder), center electrode material, open or closed ground electrode, etc. depending on the type of fuel I'm using or required to use to conform to the sanctioning body set of rules. I can easily spend 20 hours dyno testing different spark plug combinations to determine the right model to use. Happy Motoring!Is it possible to visually inspect a spark plug and determine if it's functional? What do I look for?

Could my ford f150 ignition coil be bad?How about a year and engine. If you are getting a misfire or feel the engine running rough then it's possible that you may have a bad coil. If there is no difference in how the engine runs with a particular cylinder getting no spark then you know you found the dead cylinder and which coil-on-plug to replace. If the engine is just running rough then it would be any number of things. A code reader will usually tell you what can be wrong with the vehicle if it is electrical, fuel/air mixture, and sometimes a fuel issue and will at least help you narrow down the cause. Change the fuel filter if it's been over 25000 miles and the O2 sensors if it's been over 50-75000 miles(make sure you buy Motorcraft/Ford O2 sensors since auto parts store sensors are unreliable and are often defective right out of the box). Fuel pumps are notorious for dying at about 100000 miles or more and will give you low or no fuel pressure. The ignition module is also another common part to go bad.— — — — — —cub cadet 1170 won't fire?Check the ignition coil and see where the small black wire goes. If it is grounded you wo not have any spark. I would disconnect the small black wire from the ignition coil and see if you have spark. If you do not you might have a bad coil— — — — — —i have power to the ignition coil but no spark?REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND LOOK FOR ANY DAMAGE PART OR WIRES. NEXT, CHECK RESISTANT READING ON THE IGNITION COIL WITH A VOLTMETER— — — — — —What could be the cause of my car not starting?check the ignition coil, sometimes they do not like to cold start— — — — — —My 1990 Volvo 240 breaks down when it rains. Suggestions?Considering its age (23 years), replace all the high-voltage ignition parts, starting from the ignition coil, distributor, HV cables, plug connectors, plugs. This is likely to sort things out. And a proper general tune-up would also help— — — — — —Can a bad ignition coil make my car start but not run?I would change the fuel filter— — — — — —RV is broken down. What's wrong with it? Help!?Your problem stems from a lack of maintenance and ignoring the warning symptoms of problems starting to occur. The issue of warm/hot starting difficulty is a classic sign of a failing (overheating) ignition coil. They can simply fail with age, but overheating is often caused by a lack of maintenance on the distributor points which require a specified maximum gap; when the points heel wears down the gap gets too small and the ignition dwell angle increases. That in turn energises the ignition coil for too long and fries the internal cooling oil: the damage to the coil is progressive and irreversible. The issue of starting when you release the key is another classic warning sign. It's indicative of an excessive current drain when cranking the starter and that means there's insufficient power being delivered to the ignition system. Made worse by the fact that it may already be struggling with a failing ignition coil. When you release the ignition key the power to the starter motor is cut and the excess electrical resistance falls to zero; but because the engine is still spinning briefly due to inertia the engine can sometimes start. The cause of that fault is therefore usually a failing starter motor which is drawing far too much electrical load, usually due to worn internal carbon brushes. The fast clicks are typical of a failed starter motor solenoid and/or a flat battery: over time the electrical contacts get worn and burnt due to electrical arcing and eventually cannot pass enough current to properly energise the starter motor. Repeated rapid clicking usually means that the battery is flat either due to a faulty charging system, age (batteries usually last 3 to 5 years), or due to short trips which never allow the battery to recharge sufficiently, and if I've been correct so far then your RV battery has had to work a lot harder than usual every time you've started the RV lately. If the battery gets too flat, too often, sulfation occurs and the battery gradually loses capacity and the ability to deliver sufficient power to start the vehicle. The change is progressive and permanent within the battery. The final problem brings us full circle to the ignition coil again. A failing coil gets progressively worse and overheats quicker causing the engine to die until the coil has cooled down again. So: check and replace the distributor points, and replace the points condenser at the same time for good measure. Adjust the points gap and check/adjust the dynamic ignition timing to suit modern unleaded fuels. If the battery is flat and over three years old, just change it. It will already be well past it's prime. If money is tight then recharge it, but keep some jumper leads handy to assist you to start the RV if needed. Get the starter motor tested. But again, substitution for a new/remanufactured unit or a known good one is usually faster and more certain. If the starter has done more than about 80k miles it's going to be near due for a change anyway. These days the starter solenoid is usually an integral part of the starter (as a smaller parallel cylinder to the main starter body) but if it's separate get that tested or substituted for a known good one as well. If you'be been failing to maintain all those items, then it's likely that your RV engine also needs new (and correctly gapped spark plugs), new plug wires (especially if they are soft flexible silicone wires and not stiff copper-cored ones), and a new air filter. Also change the oil and filter if they've not been done for the last 6k miles but if it's been running on fully synthetic oil you can extend that safely to 12k miles. Replace the fuel filter as well. Do not forget that other systems such as the brakes and power steering may be overdue for maintenance, and that the suspension and steering bushes and dampers may be overdue for checks. Look after your vehicle and it will look after you.