How to Check If the Rings Are Bad Or the Valves Are Leaking

Although gasoline is highly volatile, it is only when gasoline is mixed with oxygen and the mixture compressed that an explosion will result when the mixture is ignited. This is the fundamental concept behind every internal combustion engine. Compression takes place within the cylinders as the pistons move upward. To prevent air leaks, a number of rings surround each piston. At the top of the cylinder is the cylinder head, which is where the valves are. Like the piston rings, the valves must seal tightly to prevent air leaks. Checking for ring defects or leaky valves is of vital importance. Pull the spark plug wires off all the spark plugs and remove all of the spark plugs with a socket wrench and a spark plug socket. Screw the threaded tip of a compression gauge into one of the spark plug openings within the cylinder head. Block the throttle wide open by having an assistant depress the accelerator pedal to the floor. This will allow the engine to have an unrestricted supply of air. Ask the assistant to crank the engine while the accelerator pedal is depressed. Note the reading on the compression gauge, then repeat the test for the remaining cylinders. The amount of compression varies with altitude, but a normal compression reading is generally between 130 and 160 pounds-per-square-inch per cylinder. If each cylinder is within that range, the piston rings are in working order. If the gauge reading is low on a particular cylinder, remove the compression gauge and squirt a small amount of water into the cylinder with a spray bottle, then repeat the test. If the reading improves on that cylinder, the piston rings are either worn or cracked. Attach the rubber hose of a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold. Turn the engine on and have an assistant gradually depress the accelerator pedal to increase the speed of the engine. Observe the needle of the vacuum gauge. If the needle reads steady, the valves are in good condition. If the needle fluctuates as the engine speed increases, the problem is likely a leaking valve.

How to Check If the Rings Are Bad Or the Valves Are Leaking 1

1. 1988 chevy truck 350 Valves Chattering Help.?

If the valves are making noise, they will do it sitting still too. Sounds like it only does it while driving that would not be valves

2. how can you tell which valves are intake and exhaust with the valve cover off ?

INTAKE valves are usually bigger. This is because air is easier to pump out of a cylinder than it is to draw in. Whoever said exhaust valves are usually bigger is very misinformed. Like other people said, the valves will normally be close to their respective manifolds.

How to Check If the Rings Are Bad Or the Valves Are Leaking 2

3. What does it cost for gaskets?

Steve is right. What you need is simply a upper engine set or head gasket set. The set contains all the other gaskets that get replaced during the operation. Labor is now two or three times the parts cost , so if you can do it or have family willing to help you will be paying yourself. There are different brand gaskets too. I do not often purchase high end , more expensive ones. Also, your mechanic that wants 400 to 1200 is probably quoting all the small peripheral items and possibly machine shop work on the head. Heads should have valves resurfaced and other things when they are taken off to ensure good ling life after work is done.

4. All right. Old Jeep stalls when shifted into reverse. Any ideas?

The fact that there is 325k on the ticker and still runs, is amazing! Old Jeep motors are not known for their longevity. Torque converter is what I would look at first. With 325k I would think both the motor and tranny need some serious work. The 258 never had the best oil pressure even with a fresh engine. I think 15-20 psi at idle in a fresh 258 is what I had once. Running 10-30 or 40. However, the issues of the rear main is also common in the old Jeeps. They just did not seem to seal for very long. Changing the oil to a heavier weight will not fix this problem. It may temporarily help the lifters (you said valves, most likely not) from chattering. But that would be a temporary fix and the lifter chatter is an indication of bigger problems. Simply put, he is about one mile shy of transmission failure and three trips to the supermarket from engine failure. A complete engine rebuild and transmission rebuild would be the only cure at this point.

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Singer's Versatile Water Control Valves for Controlling Pressure, Level and FlowSinger Valve are well known in the Water and Utility industries around the globe for manufacturing high quality water control valves, specifically for pressure, level and flow management. This article will look at the basic technology behind the Singer valves, and how Singer can offer such a versatile solution while only using a small number of valve body designs. Singer Valve use only two different body designs in their main valve range, consisting of one full port valve called the 106, and a reduced port valve called the 206. Other than the use of a dual chamber on some valve designs, the only variable in the Singer range is the design of the Pilot Assembly. The pilot assembly is the control mechanism for the valve and determines how it will operate under some pre-determined circumstances. We wo not focus on them all today, but here is a simple breakdown of the different valve functions available, simply by changing the pilot assembly. The pilot assembly monitors the downstream pressure in the line by using a connection in the outlet port of the valve. During normal operation, the pilot assembly reacts to small changes by modulating the pressure applied to the top of the diaphragm, therefore allowing the outlet pressure to be maintained in line with the set point. Various configurations of the 106/206-PR are available, such as versions with a low flow by-pass, surge protection, solenoid-actuated shut off, check valves, or a combined pressure reducing/sustaining feature. Singer also offer a pressure reducing valve with integral back-up* for applications where valve failure is unacceptable. A secondary pressure reducing valve is incorporated within the pilot assembly, so if the primary valve fails, the secondary valve takes over the pressure reducing functionality. Some applications require that a minimum downstream pressure is delivered by the valve. In order to achieve this, the RPS Sustaining valve monitors the upstream pressure using a port in the inlet of the valve. The valve and pilot remain closed until the set pressure is exceeded. As with the Pressure Reducing Valve, the pilot reacts to small changes in the inlet pressure and will modulate or even close to ensure the set pressure is sustained. The Booster Pump Control Valve is designed to substantially reduce pump starting and stopping surges. The valve should be installed directly downstream of the pump discharge. It is a normally closed valve, and upon the starting of the pump, the pilot solenoid slowly opens the valve, gradually increasing flow through the main valve body. When pump shut-down is required, the pilot solenoid de-energises, closing the main valve and gradually reducing flow (the pump is kept running at this point). When the valve is almost fully closed, a cam triggers a limit switch which stops the pump. This has a very positive effect on reducing flow. This valve is designed to accurately limit flow to a pre-set maximum via maintaining a continuous pressure differential across an orifice (a paddle style orifice plate is included). The valve works by using the pressure differential to open or close the diaphragm to meet the pre-determined maximum flow. At the desired maximum flow, the pilot system reacts to small changes in the differential pressure and therefore controls the main valve position by modulating pressure above the diaphragm. When the pressure drop exceeds the set point, the valve closes slightly which limits the flow, bringing it back in line with the pre set maximum. All of the above valves are available with various options which slightly change the operating characteristics of the valve. For example, end-user's can specify that no yellow metals are used - full stainless steel valves are available. Or an Oxy-Nitride stem is available for applications where mineral build up is a concern. The most innovative option is Anti-Cavitation trim. The Anti-Cavitation Control Valve (106-AC) is fitted with an innovative anti-cavitation trim and is designed for use in applications where a high pressure drop is required, protecting the valve and surrounding pipe from cavitation damage. The anti-cavitation trim consists of two heavy sliding stainless steel cages which allow maximum flow through the valve. They work to dissipate the cavitation harmlessly, while allowing very low downstream pressure to be achieved. This is just an insight into the versatility of the Singer Control Valve range - there are many more configurations available. Take a look at this article from Singer which will help you get a better understanding of cavitation damage. 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What Is a Gate Valve and How Does It Works? An-Overview
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What is A Gate Valve and How Does It Works? An-OverviewGate valve is the most famous and common type of valve. This type of valve also knows as the sluice valve. A gate valve controls the flow of fluids by raising (opening) and lowering (closing) the disk or gate. Sluice or gate valve includes in the most common types of valves that use in different process plants. This is a linear motion valve that is used to stop or start the flow of fluids. These types of valves use for fully closed or fully opened services. Gate valves can not be used for the regulation of fluids. Mostly, they use in the pipelines of different industries. So, the gate valve uses as a shut-off valve to close and open the fluid flow. A Sluice valve is a general-purpose valve that operates based on the opening and closing of a disk. Since this valve disk is similar to a gate, the valve disk is perpendicular to the fluid flow path. A gate valve cannot use for fluid regulation applications as disk can damage if the disc is partially open. The high-velocity flow of the fluids in the partially open valves can create erosion on the surfaces of the disk and seat, and it also produces noise and vibration. This valve limits the pressure loss across the valve when the disc is fully open. In the fully opened or closed conditions, the disk damage chances become minimum. Gate valve uses when the liquid or gas flow needs to be straightened with the lowest limits. All gate valves can install in almost all directions because these have a bidirectional sealing function. If the sluice valve has a pressure relief function, it can be settled only in the arrow direction. Gate valves come in various options like bonnet and gate designs, different materials, and sizes. A Sluice valve is a form of multi-turn valve that has a rising stem. This stem takes many turns to close or open the valve fully. It is generally used in the fully open or fully shut down condition; therefore, the flow regulation rate cannot be adjusted. Using these valves in the half-close situation can damage the disk. When we want to open the valve, we rotate to hand-wheel in the anti-clockwise direction, while when the valve needs to be closed, then rotate it clockwise. The disk acts as an opening element, which is attached to the end of the threaded rod. The disk attaches to the wedge-shaped seat of the valve body. This disk blocks flow through the valve. As the valve completely opens, the valve disk moves up and opens; it allows fluid flow in all directions. When the gate valve is fully closed, the disk or gate fills the channel and completely stops flow through the valve. With hand-wheel valves, a steam mist on the hand-wheel denotes that either the valves are in the closed or opened situation. With the gear control valve, the top of the stem is not visible, and a separate indicator is provided if necessary. Gate valves are made of alloy steel, steel, bronze, cast carbon, Aluminum, bronze, and cast-iron, e.tc. It has flanged ends. The valve bonnet is made of cast iron. So be careful when checking it out. The gate valve has a disk, like a gate that attaches with a spindle that acts on the nut. The valve bonnet is selected based on the installation requirements and the valve position. The valve bonnet can be union, bolted, or screwed-in type. The screw-in type bonnet provides a permanent pressure seal. Union bonnet uses in applications that require proper cleaning and inspection. A bolted bonnet uses high-pressure applications. The pressure-sealed bonnet is another type of valve bonnet that also uses for high-pressure purposes. What are the Types of Gate Valve? The gate valve has a non-rising or rising stem. Large gate valves generally have a non-rising stem. As the handwheel is revolved, the valve stem is lifted off the bonnet by the handwheel. The disc position indicates by the disc, which also indicates whether the valve is close or opened. With small valves, the valve stem and wheel can lift at the same time. The stem of some gate valves does not rise. This is because the valve stems do not appear in the valve body. These gate valve types can be used when there is not sufficient space for the valve stem to protrude from the body. These types of gate valve are the most common type of industrialized valves. So, knife valve design reduces wear and tear between its various parts. If the knife valve body bottom has solid particles, they can seal off through the bottom of the valve. These gate valve types are a one-way valve that has the function of cutting off the flowing fluid. If there is material in the knife valve seat area, it will drain and close. A knife valve can survive high rough sludge and temperatures. Knife valve uses for chemical, power, and mining operations. These valves have a solid disc with a cut around the boundary. This cut has a different depth, shape, and size. A narrow, flat cut around the wedge boundary reduces flexibility but maintains strength. Broader and deeper cuts around cast grooves or wedges provide greater flexibility but compromise strength. This model enhances seat tightness and alignment. It also improves performance when thermal adhesion occurs. Flexible wedge valve uses in steam systems. The thermal expansion of the steam line can deform the valve body and cause thermal blindness. The flexile gate permits the gate to bend when the valve seat is compressed by the thermal expansion of the steam tube, preventing thermal blindness. The drawback of these gates is that fluids in the line will gather on the disc. This process can cause corrosion and eventually deteriorate the disc. In these gate valve types, the valve shuts by pushing the wedge towards the equivalent taper in the valve body. A perfect seal is possible by combining the wedge shape of the valve body with the seat ring. As the valve fully opens, the back seat of the valve stem enters the bonnet bush. In the case of the actuator valve, the valve stem cannot sit entirely on the back seat to keep away damage. This valve opens completely below the travel limits and closes completely below the torque limits. For proper seating, it does not need wedging action. The valve is closed through two individual disks connected by a disk holder, and the springs move down in parallel to close the valve. As the valve body port seals, the valve stem plug prevents further movement. As the valve opens, the disk rises upward, and the valve stem sits back. These types of gate valve usually open and close entirely with limited movement. These gate valves (also known as straight gate valves) are unitary gate valves containing bore size hole. When open, the holes coincide with the two rings of the seat. This orientation produces an even fluid flow with the least turbulence. This unique design minimizes the pressure loss of the system. The slab gate valve is best suited for transporting natural gas liquids (NGL) and crude oils. The valve seat remains clean. Though, the disk cavity can trap foreign objects. Therefore, the hole generally has a built-in plug and is used to expel accumulated debris for maintenance purposes. • None These valves use in the pipeline industries. • None It uses in the salt working pipeline. • None It uses in chemical plants. • None Gate valves use for the transportation of natural gas liquids (NGL) and crude oils. • None It uses for corrosive liquids, steam, slurries, and gas. • None These types of valves use in ships for steam circuit purposes. • None Sluice or gate valve is used for high temperatures and pressure applications. • None These valves use for almost all fluid's applications like hydrocarbons, steams, feedwater, fuel gas and air, e.tc. • None It has very low-pressure loss during operation. • None Mostly, it can use as a bi-directional valve. • None It is best appropriate for high temperatures and pressure applications. • None It can not close or open fast like a globe valve • None These valves require a large area for maintenance, operation, and installation. • None It requires high torque because of the high-pressure variance across the seats. • None The sluice valve produces high noise and vibration when it opens partially. • None These valves are not best for throttling. • None Grinding and lapping repair of these valves is tough to achieve. What is the difference between Gate and Globe Valves?
Figuring Out Some Numbers for a Mini Pump
Figuring Out Some Numbers for a Mini Pump
There are two serious problems with your approach, which you will need to change in order to end up with a sound solution.If by "9v battery cable" you mean that you intend to use a 9v battery, this is highly unsuitable for motor applications given its low power storage capacity and high internal impedance - without extreme care to use sleep modes, it probably can't even run the Arduino alone for a week. It would be much more appropriate to use a larger capacity lower voltage source - 4 or 5 C or D cells for example. A power supply could be another option, though given the water involved, be very careful to pick an isolated one and use a ground fault protected outlet.Resistors are a poor way of reducing the supply voltage to a motor, as they are not only wasteful, but the applied power will depend too much on the load. A professional solution would use pulse with modulation to apply the supply voltage at a reduced duty cycle - something you can try with one the various motor shield, but you will need to be careful not to overheat the motor by using too high a duty cycle. Probably your best bet would be to buy a pump with a 6 or 7v motor (as is showing up in the associated products at the bottom of that page), or even replace the standard-form-factor motor in that pump with a higher voltage one. A 7v or so supply voltage can then be a compromise solution for running both the motor and the arduinoI'm just now getting into electronics (I don't know why I waited so long) and I'm just figuring out some stuff. I picked up an Arduino kit from Vilros.com and a few other parts for my project.I'm currently trying to work on a project that is basically a humidor keeper. Living in So.California, it's extremely dry here and I would like a perfectly controlled environment for my humidor. I purchased a few things like some humidity sensors (as an input obviously), a humidifier (basically a water canister with a sponge and tubes) some tube splitters and twist valves and most importantly, a small air pump.The small air pump is what I'm having problems with at the moment. This is the pump. Obviously it's a 3v pump. I will be using the supplied 9v battery cable when the project is ready, so I understand I'll have to use resistors to bring the voltage down so I don't burn out the pump. As I said, I'm new to this, so I'm trying to figure out ohms law to find out what kind of resistor(s) I will need. The problem is, I don't know the amperage. Where would I find this?I looked at the details for the pump and what looks like amps (or milliamps) is really just the product number. Can anyone help me out?Right now, I have my equation as r6v / ?i But where do I find the current?·OTHER ANSWER:I'm just now getting into electronics (I don't know why I waited so long) and I'm just figuring out some stuff. I picked up an Arduino kit from Vilros.com and a few other parts for my project.I'm currently trying to work on a project that is basically a humidor keeper. Living in So.California, it's extremely dry here and I would like a perfectly controlled environment for my humidor. I purchased a few things like some humidity sensors (as an input obviously), a humidifier (basically a water canister with a sponge and tubes) some tube splitters and twist valves and most importantly, a small air pump.The small air pump is what I'm having problems with at the moment. This is the pump. Obviously it's a 3v pump. I will be using the supplied 9v battery cable when the project is ready, so I understand I'll have to use resistors to bring the voltage down so I don't burn out the pump. As I said, I'm new to this, so I'm trying to figure out ohms law to find out what kind of resistor(s) I will need. The problem is, I don't know the amperage. Where would I find this?I looked at the details for the pump and what looks like amps (or milliamps) is really just the product number. Can anyone help me out?Right now, I have my equation as r6v / ?i But where do I find the current?
When Current Flows From a Battery, Does Voltage Decrease?
The voltage of the battery depends on the chemistry of the cell it is based on. For ex, a Lithium-Polymer cell has a nominal voltage of 3.7V and that of a lead-acid cell is 2V. For cells belonging to a particular chemistry, the voltage depends on many factors, the prominent one being the concentrations of the electrolyte, electrodes etc. The increase and decrease of cell voltages while charging and discharging is due to the changes in the these values. However, the number of electrons inside of a battery doesn't change in normal operation no matter what. Applying Kirchhoff's current law, you can check it for yourselves. No matter your circuit and its operating conditions, the current going out of the battery should be equal to the current going in. The voltage only changes because the chemicals inside the cell are changed slightly and not because of a change in the number of electrons. Coming to the heat part, the heat generated in the circuit is compensated by the loss in potential energy of the battery.I understand voltage to be a potential for electrons to be pushed through a circuit.However, in a battery, you have an electron build-up that creates the voltage. Once current begins to flow, electrons are now moving through the circuit.Does this mean that the voltage actually begins to decrease as a direct result of current flow? Specifically are electrons "used up" or do they simply lose energy (dissipated as heat in circuit) which leads to a lower voltage potential?Or another scenario, do the electrons, upon returning to the battery, still act as voltage potential to continue to push a consistent amount of current through a circuit despite the loss of energy?Or is there something else I'm missing entirely?Thanks.·OTHER ANSWER:I understand voltage to be a potential for electrons to be pushed through a circuit.However, in a battery, you have an electron build-up that creates the voltage. Once current begins to flow, electrons are now moving through the circuit.Does this mean that the voltage actually begins to decrease as a direct result of current flow? Specifically are electrons "used up" or do they simply lose energy (dissipated as heat in circuit) which leads to a lower voltage potential?Or another scenario, do the electrons, upon returning to the battery, still act as voltage potential to continue to push a consistent amount of current through a circuit despite the loss of energy?Or is there something else I'm missing entirely?Thanks.
Forbes Earnings Preview: Flowserve
Wall Street is expecting higher profit for Flowserve (FLS) when the company reports its fourth quarter results on Wednesday, February 22, 2012. The consensus estimate is calling for profit of $2.26 a share, a rise from $2 per share a year ago.What to Expect:Over the past month, the consensus estimate has jumped from $2.25, but it's below the estimate of $2.28 from three months ago. For the fiscal year, analysts are expecting earnings of $7.67 per share.Revenue is expected to be $1.25 billion for the quarter, 9.6% higher than the year-earlier total of $1.14 billion. For the year, revenue is expected to come in at $4.5 billion.Trends to Watch For:For three consecutive quarters, the company's net income has increased. In the most recent quarter, profit increased 3.7% year-over-year. Going back two quarters, net income rose 7.7% in the second quarter and 20.9% in the first quarter.The company's reported revenue has increased in the last three quarters. In third quarter, revenue rose 15.5% to $1.12 billion while the figure rose 17.1% in the second quarter from the year earlier and 4% in the first quarter.Analyst Ratings:All nine analysts rate Flowserve as a buy. That rating hasn't budged in three months as the average analyst rating of the stock has remained steadfast.Competitors:Flowserve produces engineered and industrial pump and pump systems, engineered and industrial valves, control valves, actuators, controls, mechanical seals, auxiliary systems and provides a range of related flow management services worldwide, mainly for the process industries. One of Flowserve's main competitors in the machinery industry is IDEX (IEX). Other competitors in the industrials sector include: Sauer-Danfoss (SHS) and Colfax (CFX).Recent Price Movement:Over the past quarter, the stock price has risen to $117.89 from $93.22 on November 21, 2011.Earnings estimates provided by Zacks.Narrative Science , through its proprietary artificial intelligence platform, transforms data into stories and insights.
Help! My Water Heater Is Leaking - What Should I Do?
Your water heater is leaking. It might be water trickling down the side of the tank or a puddle on the floor. You need to take care of it right away.No one likes thinking about cold showers or buying a new water heater. Let's think about DIY solutions instead.Often, a leaky heater just needs minor repairs. We know because we take care of plumbing and pipe leaks all across Chicago, IL, and the suburbs.Here's everything you need to know about fixing a leaking water heater.Why Is My Water Heater Leaking? 6 Common CausesYour water heater is an efficient, self-contained system. Cold and hot water enters and leaves the tank through inlet and outlet pipes on top of the unit. An electrical component or gas flame heats the water to a desired temperature. The heated water rises to the top of the tank where it remains until you turn on a hot water tap.All water heaters feature a temperature and pressure relief valve as well as a drain valve. The T&P valve helps ensure safe operation, and the drain valve allows you to empty the water tank.While most water heaters last 10 to 12 years, daily use takes a toll on system parts.These are common problems that can make a water heater leak:• Loose connections and fittings on inlet and outlet pipes• Cracks or pinholes in walls of the water heater tank liningHow to Tell If the Water Heater Is LeakingWater heater leaks often pool under the unit. However, there can be other sources for water on the floor:If your home's furnace drain line or AC condensate line and drip pan are nearby, check the equipment for leaks. Wall leaks and condensation can also collect and pool on the floor in a damp basement.Once you are certain the problem is a water heater leak, do a little investigating. Bad leaks are obvious, but small leaks can be tricky.Often, puddles under the unit are caused by the water heater leaking from a top element. Wipe heater surfaces dry, and wait for a few minutes.If you do not spot the leak right away, place dry cloths around the intake and outlet pipes. Run your fingers along the T&P valve, and put a small pan under the drain valve. Check back in a few hours.If the leak still is not obvious, you may be dealing with a cracked tank.Pro tip: Water damage restoration professionals use specialized equipment and cameras to detect moisture behind walls and floors to detect damage, so if you are not sure if you are dealing with a leaky water heater, call a restoration professional like ServiceMaster Restoration by Zaba in Chicago, IL as soon as possible.Exploding water heaters are rare, but a leaky water heater should be fixed as soon as possible. In addition to running up the water bill, a heater leak can cause damage and even pose a threat to your health. These are a few examples of the problems that can result from putting off repairs.• A small drip turns into a big leak that floods the room.• Water dripping from the unit seeps into sub-floors and crawlspaces.• A water heater leaking from the relief valve compromises its safe operation.• Water leaking down the unit's exterior shorts out electrical components.• Mold growth in the damp atmosphere aggravates allergies and respiratory problems.Who to Call If the Water Heater Is LeakingMost homeowners can fix a leaky water heater with tools found around the house. However, some problems need professional solutions. For example, if the leak is due to interior tank damage or requires replacing major components, it's best to call a licensed plumber.A leaky heater often causes secondary water damage that results in long-term structural problems. If you are dealing with wet floors or damp drywall, contact a company that specializes in water damage mitigation.The best water damage professionals handle cleanup, sanitation and restoration. Their certified technicians also repair leaking pipes and take care of mold removal.Get your water heater repair job off to a safe start by turning off power to the unit. If it's an electric heater, flip off its breaker at your home's breaker box. Turn off a gas water heater by closing the valve on its gas line or turning the thermostat to the "off" position.Next, shut down the tank's water supply by turning the valve on the inlet pipe clockwise. If it's a ball-style valve, turn the handle 180 degrees. If the valve is broken or you can not reach it, turn off your home's main water supply.Now, you are ready to fix the leaky water heater.Depending on which component is leaking, follow these steps for DIY water heater repairs.If Your Water Heater Is Leaking From the TopTake a look at the cold water inlet pipe and hot water outlet pipe. If you are not sure which one is leaking, wipe the surface dry. When the leak reappears around one of the pipes, tighten its connection with a pipe wrench.The leak might be coming from the pipe valve. In this case, tighten the nut that connects the handle to the pipe. If neither fix stops the leak, you may need to replace the valve.If the Water Heater Leaks Around Its T&P ValvePlace a bucket under the T&P pipe. Open its valve by pulling up the valve tab. This flushes out any built-up debris. Once the pipe is clear, close the valve, dry the surface, and check back later for signs of leaks.If water continues to leak around the T&P valve, drain the tank to just below the top of the T&P pipe. Using channel locks, unscrew the valve. Clean out any corrosion or rust in the connection. Wrap valve threads with plumber's tape before securing it back on the T&P pipe.A water heater leaking from the pressure relief valve can be the result of excessive water pressure. Measure your home's water pressure with a pressure gauge. Ideally, it should read between 40 and 50 psi.If Your Water Heater Is Leaking From the BottomWater leaking from the bottom of the heater is usually caused by a bad drain valve. Try tightening the valve with a wrench, but do not apply too much pressure. Check the washer inside the valve for signs of wear. If it's dirty or cracked, replace it with a new washer.Be very careful. Water draining from the valve can be extremely hot and can cause serious injury. If you have any concerns about working on this part of the water heater, call an experienced plumber.If You Need to Drain the Leaking Water HeaterThis is another job that's best left to a licensed professional. However, in case of an emergency, you can do it yourself:Start by turning off the unit's power. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve, and run it outside. Open the T&P valve, and then open the drain valve. Make sure the water drains away from the house. It probably contains sediment and rust that can stain the driveway and harm your lawn.If Your Water Heater Is TanklessA tankless water heater holds down energy costs and lowers household water consumption, but it can still develop leaks. This usually occurs around the cold water supply pipe or hot water tap. Tighten up any loose connections, and replace worn washers.If a tankless heater is leaking due to any of these problems, it's time to call the plumber:• Condensation forming inside the heater because of improper venting• Pinholes on interior components caused by hard water, rust or sedimentReduce the chances of leaks from the tankless water heater with regular maintenance. This includes changing out air and water filters, flushing the system and checking the heating element. Your plumber can take care of these chores with a service call.Does a Leaking Water Heater Need to Be Replaced?Most water heaters hold up to everyday use for 10 or 12 years. Tankless models can last as long as 20 years or more. Still, both heater types develop problems that can not be solved with DIY repairs.These are common signs that it may be time to replace your home's water heater:• Badly corroded components such as valves or fittings• Leaking that originates from inside the tank• The need for general repairs more than twice a year• An unexpected spike in your electric or gas bill• Showers and baths routinely running out of hot waterMake a note of your water heater's serial number. You can often determine its age by entering the information on the heater manufacturer's website. If you have to replace the old water heater or simply decide to upgrade, shop around, and compare energy efficiency ratings.Dealing With a Leaking Water Heater in Chicago, IL, or the Suburbs? We Can Help!You may not have the time to fix a water heater leak. It's not always easy to figure out exactly where the appliance is leaking. We are here to help.Our services include leaky pipe repair for homeowners in Chicago, IL, and the suburbs. We also take care of water-damaged floors, drywall and ceilings. Our industry-certified technicians know how to solve leaking water heater problems.Call us today here at ServiceMaster Restoration by Zaba: 773-647-1985what does an automatic shift kit do?An automatic transmission's main focus is smooth shifting between gears. To accomplish this it often goes into two gears at once while shifting up, which is known as a shift overlap. In these cars, it is a kit that can reduce or eliminate the shift overlap. It will also reduce wear because the transmission wo not be trying to drive in two gears at once. The downside, the smoothness is sacraficed, resulting much harsher shock along the entire driveline. READ FURTHER TO UNDERSTAND HOW THIS IS DONE: A hydraulic automatic transmission consists of the following parts: Fluid coupling or torque converter: A hydraulic device connecting the engine and the transmission is replaced or even adjusted. It takes the place of a mechanical clutch, allowing the engine to remain running at rest without stalling. A torque converter is a fluid coupling that also provides a variable amount of torque multiplication at low engine speeds, increasing "breakaway" acceleration. Tampering with the torque converter you can let the transmission engage at a much higher RPM. Planetary gearset: A compound planetary set whose bands and clutches are actuated by hydraulic servos controlled by the valve body, providing two or more gear ratios can be also tampered with, but likely are not in most common shift kits. Adjusting the hydraulic control center that receives pressurised fluid from a main pump operated by the fluid coupling/torque converter is replaced with a more aggressive pressure. The valves use the pump pressure and the pressure from a centrifugal governor on the output side (as well as hydraulic signals from the range selector valves and the throttle valve or modulator) to control which ratio is selected on the gearset; as the car and engine change speed, the difference between the pressures changes, causing different sets of valves to open and close. Adjusting them as well can change performance dramtically. The hydraulic pressure controlled by these valves drives the various clutch and brake band actuators, thereby controlling the operation of the planetary gearset to select the optimum gear ratio for the current performance conditions. However, in many modern automatic transmissions, the valves are controlled by electro-mechanical servos which are controlled by the Engine Management System or a separate transmission controller. Adjusting the programming is needed to properly take full advantage of the shift kit. The multitude of parts, along with the complex design of the valve body, originally made hydraulic automatic transmission shift kits much more complicated (and expensive) to build and repair. And doing the Automatic-Manual Transmission.well, that was not asked so no need to mention. FURTHERMORE: Rather then automatic tranmissions, with a manual transmissions you control when to shift, and how hard to shift. Any true race boon will pick a manual transsmission first.
What Are Some Ways to Keep My Hair Really Healthy?
What Are Some Ways to Keep My Hair Really Healthy?
Use professional shampoo & conditioner. I know it may seem like a rip-off, however all the shampoos like Pantene, Garnier, etc. have a high alcohol content....since the normal pH of your hair is 4.5-5.5, things containing high amounts of alcohol throw your hair all out of whack and cause breakage, split-ends, fly-aways, etc. The reason these shampoos make your hair feel soft is because they contain high amounts of humectants, which are just a cover for how damaging they really are! Another tip is ALWAYS use a thermal protector while applying heat. Heat appliances cause tons of damage to your hair. Usually this is a cream/clear gel you apply before blow drying. Never use a flat iron on hair that is not completely dry!1. Split End Help. ( 10 Points) !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?For sure you should get a trim and maybe even cut your hair as short as you are comfortable doing it. You should for no reason straighten or dye your hair. Look for some Garnier Fructis or Pantene shampoos and conditioner for curly hair so that it extra moisturizes it and helps the split ends repair themselves. I say from experience that ppl with curly hair have really bad split ends, which is why we have special stuff in our hair products. The split ends wont magically go away in like a month or a few weeks, but you will see improvement after a while. Oh, and for sure DO NOT PICK THEM OFF!! It will just make it worse. Every two months until your hair is healthy get a trim. just maybe half an inch or an inch will be just fine. Eventually your hair will go back to normal. Good luck with that!.2. Whats the best shampoo conditioner for cheap?clever or V05 are solid inexpensive ($a million) shampoos, yet whilst it is composed of conditioner i could bypass Tresemme ($6) it does an somewhat solid interest. i take advantage of salon shampoo because of the fact i am form of a hair snob, yet I nonetheless use the cheap conditioner. Pantene is undesirable on your hair (too plenty protein and reasons alot of greater build up on the hair) so i does not bypass there. desire this permits! My hair is oily, superb, and colour-taken care of if that helps you any!3. How can I get my curly hair to be nice like Taylor Swift?Haha i have the same hair long and curly..but not pretty curly! im completely obsessed with taylor and her hair so i did so playing with it and what you really NEED to get is the conair hot sticks!! they are these little flexible curlers and they are not very expensive and i would look like a frizz ball without them!! you can like get them at walmart. anyways what i do when iwear my hair curly is like i get up and get in the shower and wash it and condition it and this may sound weird but dont use a whole lot of conditioner just enough to get it done cause it will help your hair hold the curl the just get out and towel dry your hair till it is just damp and then put a curling mouse in it and frizz serum then finish blow drying it straight! and you know have the curlers on like when your gettin in the shower and then just make sure the little light is on meaning that they are hot enough and then seperate your hair into pretty small peices (if you have really thick hair then you might need to buy two sets cause they only have 14 in them and you use small sections) and then start from the botom of your hair and role it through your hair and pin it together youll see the instructions on how to pin them together and make sure you wrap it all the way to the top of your head and leave them for like 15 or 20 minutes while your finishin gettin ready and then use like a light hairspray about 5 minutes before you take them out then your done. i know this thing was really long but its not that hard lol!!!! hope i helped good luck!!!!!!!!
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