I have a bunch of trailers: horse, boat, flatbed, and dump styles. The location I usually find a short is where the wire comes through the frame to a light. Many times after years of use the grommets that protect the wires fall out and the insulation rubs through the wires, my first check is at night to see if any of the lights are out, tall grass can pull a wire out then bouncing around it shorts and blows the fuse , on my boat rubbing through is more common I have replaced that wiring 3 times since the early 90's as the salt water and lots of use really accelerates the wear on the wires. For the horse trailer make sure to check your upper marker lights these can get water in them and hold it once the parts start rusting a short can blow the fuse I have seen this happen also
1. Cost to install a trailer hitch?
Call u-haul, ryder, or any other truck rental place around your area and ask them
2. Trailer loading tips of new horse?
Hold a dressage whip in your right hand, leadrope in your left. Open the trailer and start about 20-30m away with the horse facing the trailer, you are facing the horse on her near side shoulder. Tap the whip gently against her shoulder as an aid to get her to walk a few steps forward. Then take the whip away and ask her to reverse a couple of steps. She should walk 3 steps forward, 2 steps back so that she is slowly but surely advancing towards the trailer. This has the advantage of keeping your horse's mind busy instead of letting her think about how scary the trailer is. Keep this routine up until you get to the ramp of the trailer. Then do not do the "reverse", just keep tapping her shoulder with the whip and encouraging her to walk into the trailer. It helps if you have someone nearby who can straighten her up for you if she attempts to evade the trailer by going off the side of the ramp. Make sure that you are calm and leave plenty of time to get her on. Also be very careful not to pull back on the leadrope when you get her into the trailer as even a small pressure will be interpreted as "reverse" and she will back out. I find my horse is more likely to stay in the trailer if he has a hay net to eat while I go around to put up the ramp. If you need more control use a bridle. This method sounds time intensive but it actually works. I learnt it at a seminar when I was working with the Riding for the Disabled Association.
3. Creating a huge trailer voice.
Plugs that come to mind: rbass, l1 slammed, rvox also play with multiband comps
4. How do I remove boat from trailer to trailer entirely on land. One trailer to rusty to move.?
The boat can be pulled back off the dead trailer onto a bed of old tyres, pay attention to the transom, keel and chines. The old tyres may leave black smudges, scrap carpet can help with that if you do not want to clean the hull. (And fair enough too) The new trailer can be winched under the boat with a bit of effort, removing tyres and padding as you go. Adjustment of bunks and rollers may have to happen as part of this operation but other than that it is straight forward. For control the winch cable should pass around a h/duty pulley with a hook that goes to the bow shackle and the winch cable goes to the winch post, or if not long enough to various parts of the trailer as the boat comes on. This reduces effort a lot and slows it all down. Make sure the engine or leg is all the way up. Biggest boat I've done this to was 21' 3000 kg inboard tunnel hull - just take your time and make sure the hull is supported well. Trying to prop the hull up and hold it off the ground with cribbing or similar is too dangerous for me. If the old trailer can move at all you could consider using a large car trailer to pick the lot up and take it to a ramp. If the old trailer has no wheels this wo not work but might be an easier and safer option. Cranes and forklifts are a last expensive solution if all else fails. Good luck, stay safe.
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