Will Tesla Vehicles Be Adversely Affected by Dubai's Heat?

It's story time boys and girls... deep in the Sands of Dubai cars go to die. It's the mythical car graveyard. It's due to equal parts fine particulate sand and unrelenting heat. Air filters are clogged in a matter of weeks. Plastic and rubber parts melt or dry and crumble in a year. Laminate is glass separates and bubbles. Build quality on Teslas is widely panned as they abound with cheap thin plastics, weak adhesives and stickers, and easily melted butyl patches. So the vehicle will be a melted mess with a bubble filled touchscreen in a matter of weeks. Teslas however have a unique issue. Their operating temperature for the batter is between 30 and 50 deg celcius. Power consumption or charging generates heat at the battery. On a hot summer day the air is already at the upper limit for normal battery operation, so power output will be significantly restricted. Road temperatures will radiate temperatures exceeding 120 deg c. The vehicle occupants will also need airconditioning which also consumes power and increases battery temps. As they use the ac to assist in battery cooling, it is likely the refrigerant to the cabin ac will be shut off to preserve the battery. So what you will have is a car that is falling apart that drives slowly due to restricted power while letting the occupants suffer in a sauna.So luxurious and futuristic! But really just a combination of factors that make it a decent car in moderate climates and a poor choice for extreme climates such as Dubai.Will Tesla vehicles be adversely affected by Dubai 's heat?.

1. Can a heat engine cool its heat source?

If heat source is finite, then as it loses internal energy to the sink, which happens whether or not heat engine is present, heat source's temperature decreases, until its temperature becomes equal to that of sink. A heat engine can only alter the rate at which this process happens, but not the final equilibrium state."heat engine ... must present some effective (positive) thermal resistance and thus increase the temperature of the source" is incorrect because by virtue of second law of thermodynamics heat must flow from hotter to colder body. But of course you $textitcan$ increase temperature of (finite) heat source by means of heat $textitpump$, which is a reversed heat engine that takes some external work input.Response to edit:Whether heat source's temperature would be greater in case B than case A, depends on specifics of the heat engine employed. If you attempt to make the heat engine as close to reversible as possible then all its processes must be carried out very slowly, and then given that power is constantly pouring into heat source, its temperature is bound to increase. On the other hand you could speed up the process of heat transfer and thus bring down the temperature of heat source. Take for example Rayleigh-Bernard convection, in which a fluid is placed between two parallel (infinite) plates, with top plate being at lower temperature than the bottom one. If the fluid is viscous enough not be set into motion, then heat transfer occurs purely by conduction and so greater temperature difference would be required for same power input (in steady state). However once convection begins (which is a kind of heat engine) the temperature difference reduces for the same power input

2. heat wont shut off, cold in the house?

Take some towels and place them over fans and wet the towels every hour. I suspect that the humidity in your home is way down. Dry air does not hold heat, damp air does.

3. Question regarding the Heat Strip element of a Heat Pump?

It is probably nothing. More likely it is an inaccurate reading on your part due to the way the unit operates. First, what matters is the heat rise, Delta T, not the absolute temperature. You must subtract the room temp from the reading at the register. For instance, if the air at the return air vent is 50 degrees and 100 at the register that is a 50 degree heat rise. If the room temp is 70 and it is 110 at the vent that is actually less heat output of only 40 degrees but a higher number at the register. Second, not all heat strips come on at the same time. They are brought on in a sequence, one after another. Plus they may or may not be different wattages. Often I have seen one 5kw and two or more at 2.5kw. Units can have 2 to 8 or more strips. They do that to help tune the heat needed. The longer it runs the more heat it will produce. You need to turn your heat up high, like to 90, then let it run for at least 20 minutes before taking the temperature once it has warmed up and reached the max temp. You need to test it like that before you know if there is any problem. Yes, you could have a single strip out or a bad sequencer not turning one on. But you wo not know until you test a long heat run. Good Luck. PS, if it is below freezing outside you might want to just switch to emergency heat since the heat pump does not produce much of anything when it is below freezing. Also the thermostats are usually set to only kick in the strip heat when the temp falls over 3-5 degrees below the setting. So it runs all the time. If you turn to emer. heat it will heat to temp and shut off. The electric strip heat is more expensive when the temps are warmer and there is heat for the heat pump to grab. So switch it back when warmer. Below freezing the heat pump part is doing almost nothing.