Air Conditioner Repairs?

air conditioner repairs?

Air Conditioner Repairs? 1

yes he did hook up gages and got low reading and to busy or lazy to go futher . turn unit on and feel the large line that should have black rubber foam on it should be cold to touch if not there is a cheap fix that might work we us grainger a/c stop leak they sell a small can of R 22 with a hose that is called stop leak you just turn it upside down and put it on the large line and let it run out it explaines how in the instructions it cost about $60.00 sometimes it helps small leaks if they are large you will see white frost and moisture on line that leaks. also the new units must be the R134 and have new lines run very expensive

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How to buy Air conditioner?

Unless your "small" bedroom is at least 111-square meters 1. You would want something in the .5 ton range (not 1-plus anything).If you would like a rechargeable fan for frequent power outages & it's common amongst your selection, then you will have something to move the air. So, that's a plus but a waste & a potential future problem if you do not see a need.The store(s) should have a sheet, pamphlet or booklet with the "approximate" size AC unit for a range of room sizes. .5ton or 6000btu should likely work perfectly, but get the store chart, measure your room & go for the next size up or for the maximum suggested for that room size. Going too big does cool, but it does not remove the humidity before it shuts off, so you will always feel clammy

Air Conditioner Repairs? 2

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Auto air conditioner issues?

this is from honda-tech.com. i found it informative. Now there is really only 4 main things that are likely wrong with your system. 1. Moisture/air/low freon in the system. You can check this easily by looking at your receiver-drier. Look at the site glass on top of the drier. You will probably need to wipe it off to see through it. Now, if you see a million little bubbles, or a couple fat bubbles, then you obviously have either air in your line or you are low on freon. Check your pressure before topping off with freon. You do not want to overcharge. The safest way is to just drain the entire system and start from scratch, considering how cheap refrigerant is.where as if you overcharge and blow your compressor, thats gonna cost you $100 for a used on and several hundred for a new one, along with a new receiver/drier, new TXV/orifice tube, and if you are really unlucky, evaporator and condensor. Thats over $650 right there. Aparantly some AC systems do not have a site glass on the drier, so the only way to check is to check your low and high side pressures. Below 30psi LOW and 150psi HIGH is undercharged. 2. Your thermal expansion valve or TXV is not properly functioning. If debris got in your line, it can clog the valve, or it may just stop working. This is a $33 dollar autozone item you can replace while the system is open. When you open the system, you will also need to replace the receiver drier, because it absorbs moisture and will become saturated one you open the lines, making it useless. That is another $30 dollar item. Not to say that it instantly will absorb all moisture and become useless, however after if it is more than 2 years old you should replace it anyway, or if the drier was exposed to air for more than a day. Now if you suspect a leak in the line, you should hold off on replacing the drier until you fix the leak, unless you want to buy another drier while you open the line up and fix the leak. If debris is caught somewhere in the line, it will cause premature expansion of the refrigerant. You will be able to tell this by checking the hot line for an immediate cold spot. Thats where the debris is located which needs to be flush out. When flushing you line, you CAN NOT flush through the compressor or thermal expansion valve. Most of the time flushing through the condensor will not clear the debris because it will just flow right past it. 3. Your compressor is bad. Unlikely though. If your pressure stays stable while the a/c is on and the pressure is within 25-50 cold side and 150-200 high side, normally that means its good. If the clutch spins with no grinding then that is a good sign. 4. You have a leak in your line and the system will not hold a charge. I just found out last night I had a FAT leak in my valve core, and it turns out that was my only leak. If your system is already low or empty, you might as well replace them anyway and save money and a headache later. They cost $4 for a repair kit at autozone.

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